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Out
of Africa: feast on Kwanzaa's fruit of the harvest
Author: Vegetarian
Times
Menu
Granny's Icebox Rolls
Tofu
Gumbo
White
Corn Grits Souffle
Black-Eyed Pea Croquettes
Sugared Sweet Potatoes,
Plantains and Apples
Mixed Greens
Macaroni and Cheese
Five-Flavor Pound
Cake with Caramel Drizzle
Kwanzaa--you'll find it on any December
calendar, inked between Christmas and New Year's,
a holiday so novel
that 40 years ago it didn't exist. Yet 15 million people worldwide
now circle
the dates for Kwanzaa, the creation of a California college
professor and African-American
activist named Maulana Karenga.Kwanzaa,
Swahili for "first fruits of the harvest," is a 7-day
celebration of life,
family, community and culture. From December 26 through January 1,
African Americans give thanks for past accomplishments--the "fruits" of
their labor--pay
homage to their ancestors and reaffirm the values
of their African heritage. A cultural rather
than a religious observance,
Kwanzaa is a time of fasting, feasting and self-examination.
Based on
traditional harvest festivals, Kwanzaa was established in 1966 at the
height of the
Black Freedom Movement. Desiring Pan-African solidarity,
Karenga, a Black Studies professor
at California State University,
Long Beach, created Kwanzaa with three purposes: to restore
rootedness
in African culture; to reaffirm a common identity and direction as
a world
community; and to introduce and reinforce the Seven Principles
of unity, self-determination,
collective work and responsibility, cooperative
economics, purpose, creativity and faith.
During Kwanzaa, family members
gather each night to light red, green and black candles
corresponding
to the Seven Principles. As each candle is lit, the family discusses
the principle
of the day and makes a commitment to practice that principle
throughout the year.The rituals
of Kwanzaa also include eating--and
lots of it. The sixth day of Kwanzaa, December 31, is
marked by a lavish
feast. "The Kwanzaa Karuma, in keeping with the theme of black unity,
draws on the cuisines of Africa, the Caribbean and southern America,
wherever Africans were
taken," says classically trained chef Carla
Hall, a native of Nashville, Tennessee, and a proponent
of showcasing
African-American cooking minus the meat. "The way I contribute, as
the cook in
the family, is to take a few of my grandmother's old traditions
and my food memories, add a
new twist to some of them and create new
traditions."The following recipes are some of Hall's
favorites. Whether
or not you celebrate Kwanzaa, you're sure to find any of these dishes
welcome at your holiday table.Washington, DC, resident Carla Hall graduated
from the cooking
school L'Academie de Cuisine in Maryland. She runs
Alchemy Caterers and teaches cooking
classes.
Granny's Icebox Rolls MAKES ABOUT 3 DOZEN ROLLS When I was growing up, Sunday dinnerwas always at my grandmother's house 30 miles away. I always wanted my mom topull over and call ahead to let Granny know we were just 10 minutes away. Shewould never start the cornbread or bake the rolls until we were in the house. 1/4 cup lukewarm water 1 pkg. dried yeast 1 tsp. plus 1/4 cup granulated sugar 1 cup whole milk 1/4 tsp. salt 1 stick plus 4 Tbs. melted butter 1 large egg, beaten 3 cups all-purpose flour 1. Combine lukewarm water, yeast and 1teaspoon sugar. Let yeast bubble and double in size, about 15 minutes. 2. Mix milk, remaining 1/4 cup sugar, salt, butter and beaten egg together. Slowly stir in flour. Add yeast mixture to flour mixture,stirring well--dough should be very sticky. Cover flour mixture with wax paper and towel, and place in warm area. Let rise until it doubles in bulk, about 1 hour. 3. Divide dough into two sections. Knead each section about 4 minutes, and on floured surface, roll out dough to about 1/4-inch thick. 4. Use 2-inch round cookie cutter to cutdough into circles. Brush dough cutouts with remaining melted butter. Fold dough cutouts in half, spray baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray and place dough on sheet about 1 1/2-inches apart. Let rise about 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk. 5. Preheat oven to 400F. 6. Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden brown on top. Remove from oven, and serve hot. PER SERVING: 80 CAL; 2G PROT; 4.5G TOTALFAT (2.5G SAT. FAT); 10G CARB; 15MG CHOL;75MG SOD; 0G FIBER; 2G SUGARS
Tofu Gumbo SERVES 8 Gumbo may be made with a number of main ingredients, so why not tofu? Marinated tofu is a modern addition to this old Cajun favorite--along with the distinctive texture of okra. It's served over a White Corn Grits Souffle, which is fluffed with eggs and served golden brown and piping hot right out of the oven. Leftover grits may be sliced and fried like polenta for breakfast the next morning or eaten as a snack later in the day. 1 Tbs. minced garlic 1/2 onion, diced 1/4 cup Dijon mustard 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper 1/4 cup peanut oil 1/4 cup cider vinegar 1 Tbs. brown sugar 1 lb. extra-firm tofu, cut in 1/2-inch cubes 3 Tbs. plus 1/4 cup canola oil 1/2 onion, diced 2 ribs celery, diced 1 green pepper, diced 1/2 red pepper, diced 1 Tbs. minced garlic 1 cup diced canned tomatoes 1 tsp. dried thyme leaves 1 tsp. dried oregano 1 tsp. dried basil 2 bay leaves 2 cups vegetable stock Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/4 lb. okra, cut in 1/2-inch pieces 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1. Combine garlic, onion, mustard, cayenne pepper, peanut oil, vinegar and brown sugar in large bowl. Place tofu cubes in mixture, and marinate 2 to 24 hours. 2. Heat 1 tablespoon canola oil in large pot over medium heat. Saute onions, celery, peppers and garlic until onions are translucent and vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, thyme, oregano, basil, bay leaves, stock, salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook 15 to 20 minutes. 3. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large skillet, and saute okra until light brown. Remove from skillet, and add to tomato mixture. 4. Drain tofu, keeping diced onion. Reheat skillet, and saute tofu until lightly browned. Remove from skillet, and add to tomato mixture. 5. Heat remaining 1/4 cup oil in skillet, and whisk in flour. Continue whisking mixture, or roux, until it is light brown and smells slightly nutty, for 3 to 4 minutes. 6. Reheat tomato mixture over medium heat, and stir in roux 1 tablespoon at a time. Continue to stir until gumbo is consistency of gravy. Remove from heat, and serve over White Corn Grits Souffle. PER SERVING: 360 CAL; 8G PROT; 30G TOTALFAT (3G SAT. FAT); 16G CARB; 0MG CHOL;240MG SOD; 3G FIBER; 5G SUGARS
Wine Suggestions
A Kendall Jackson or Sterling Chardonnay,
both bold enough to stand up to the rich, nutty
gumbo, is one way to
go with the dish. And if you prefer Chardonnays on the lighter side,
pair this dish with a Jacobs Creek South Eastern Australian.
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